Field Notes
An Honest Conversation About Altitude
Leh hits hard at 11,500 feet. Here's what no one tells you about acclimating, and why we now mandate buffer days into every Himalayan itinerary.
Rohan Sen·January 30, 2026·6 min read
I have flown into Leh half a dozen times. The first few times, I was arrogant and got terribly sick. The latest time, I respected the elevation — and the expedition was the best of my life by a wide margin.
Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) doesn't care how fit you are. It doesn't care about your VO2 max, your gym routine, or your last marathon. It cares about oxygen, sleep, and time. You have to give your body all three.
Our strict rule now: 48 hours minimum in Leh town before driving to any higher passes like Khardung La or Pangong Tso. Rest, slow walks to the local market, absolutely no alcohol, and gallons of water. It sounds boring. It is highly effective. The mountains aren't going anywhere; make sure you're healthy enough to actually see them.
written by hand Rohan Sen
